Captivating Capri – an island paradise

As with Ischia, we’ve been to Capri three times since 2009 and it’s an island we will keep returning to as it is so beautiful. *Update, we’ve now been 5 times*.

Unlike Ischia though, Capri is the playground of the rich and famous (we once had Rod Stewart and his wife Penny walking behind us and on our last trip we spotted Italian actor Christian De Sica) and those who want to be seen – you only have to walk past Grand Hotel Quisisana during aperitivo time to see what I mean. Aside from this, Capri is rich in other ways – from its stunning blue and green waters to the magnificent coastline as well as its ancient sites, dating back centuries.

Capri is really easy to get to from Naples, Positano, Ischia or Sorrento – it’s just a short ferry ride. Even if you are not staying in Capri, you can join the day-trippers who arrive in the morning to spend the day on the island before heading back in the early evening.

Here are my recommendations when visiting Capri:

Enjoy the stunning water

Capri is very expensive (in all aspects!). To visit a private beach, such as the one by the famous Faraglioni or Lido del Faro in Anacapri, it will set you back around €30 per person. However, there are some free beaches such as the one at the far end in Marina Grande and also Faro in Anacapri (not the Lido), pictured below, is free. It’s actually one of our favourite places to swim.

See Capri by boat

If you can, I highly recommend hiring your own boat and exploring the island. There are so many beautiful spots to swim in that can only be accessed by boat. If it’s too expensive, or you are only visiting on a day trip, then I recommend going on an organised boat tour around the island. Make sure to choose one that stops at the famous Grotta Azzurra (the blue grotto) and lets you go in. One of the highlights of hiring our own boat was being able to sail through the Faraglioni.

Overlook Via Krupp at Augustus Gardens

We only discovered Via Krupp on our second visit and unfortunately it was closed when we visited in July (it’s still closed now in 2020) as they had some rock fall.

It’s a pathway that was commissioned in the early 20th century by German industrialist Friedrich Alfred Krupp to link Marina Piccola (where he moored his yacht) to the area surrounding the Gardens of Augustus (which was close to his suite at Grand Hotel Quisisana). The walk, when we did it, was absolutely stunning and you also get a fabulous view of the Faraglioni. Hopefully it will reopen soon! For now, head up to the free Augustus Gardens for a view over via Krupp and the Faraglioni.

Explore Anacapri

Often overlooked, Anacapri is a suburb of Capri and is located above (the prefix ‘ana’ meaning up or above) Capri. It has its own town centre and is a great place to escape to when Capri becomes a bit too much. Anacapri is where you will find locals and the free beach in Faro.

There are some historical sights too, such as San Michele church, which dates back to 1719. 

There are lots of hotels (many five star hotels are based here), restaurants and even a chair lift! Be sure to get the chair lift up to Monte Solaro for stunning panoramic views over the island. 

Eat great food

You’re in Italy so of course the food will be good! Here are some of the places we ate at that we loved…

Mammà – a contemporary restaurant, which has an open kitchen and one Michelin star. If you go around sunset, you’ll have the most stunning view. 

Monzu – part of the hotel, Punta Tragara, Monzu has to have the most stunning setting. The first time we ate here we were seated outside, next to a pool and it was just wonderful. The second time we were seated outside on a terrace. The food was excellent (although they have a Michelin star, so it should be!) – in particular, the fish tartare with a tomato gazpacho was surprisingly delighful!

L’Approdo – a lovely pizzeria and restaurant in Marina Grande. Nothing terribly fancy but it has good food, a great view and a nice ambience.

J.K Place – we enjoyed lunch at J.K Place, which has a stunning view over Marina Grande. Pretty pricey as it’s a five-star hotel but the view makes up for it!

Lo Smeraldo – situated near the ferry ticket offices in Marina Grande, Lo Smeradlo has not only a stunning view over the sea but the most fabulous food! 

And the best place for ice-cream…? Hands down it’s Gelateria Buonocore. Be prepared to queue though at any time, day or night but it is so worth it. They make their waffle cones fresh and the smell fills the air… it’s intoxicating. My favourite flavours are pistachio, nocciola and stracciatella. They also make great coffee and yummy biscuits! 

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